For those of you who know what ‘emails’ are, I advise you to read this!
E-mail (short for electronic mail) is now one of the main ways we communicate with each other, expanding are communication boarders to a whole new level. While extremely useful, email can be dangerous and a pain in the ass to deal with. Below is useful information that is worth knowing or reviewing, as well as questions you might have felt too embarrassed to ask about.
How to email:
To start, you must create an account with one of the many online or internet service providers, such as AOL (aol.com), Yahoo (yahoo.com), or MSN (msn.com). From there, you are free to write emails to all your friends and family. In an email, you can send not only text but media content, which includes pictures, sounds (music), and short video. However, the more media content you include in your email, the longer it will take to actually send the email as oppose to just sending text. Don’t let this hold you back though! Many people send media content via email; depending on how fast your internet speed, media will be sent faster.
Addresses:
Mail and E-mail are similar: when mailing a letter to a friend, you have to specify his/her address so he/she gets your letter; when sending an email to a friend, you have to specify his/her email address so he/she gets your email. Below is an example of this blog's email address:
jabcomputerblog@aol.com
If you wanted to send an email to me, then you would send it to the above address. If you typed in the address wrongly, then obviously it will go to the wrong person or the email won’t go through at all. Note that capitalization of the email address does NOT matter, so you could type JaBComPutERBLog@aol.com if you wanted to. If your friend or family member does not have an email address, then you cannot send an email to that person.
Subject Line:
Every email you send should have a subject. This is what your email is about. For example, if I was emailing a friend about a pie fair, then my subject would be along the lines of, “Pie fair”. Note that emails do not have to have a subject; it is only useful for letting the person know what your email is about before they open it.
Cc and Bcc:
Usually under the subject line or a button on the side, these are for sending the same copy of your email to many other people.
Cc- stands for Carbon Copy. In the Cc line, you must put all the email addresses you want to send your email to. Separate the email addresses by a comma. Note that all the recipients of your email (those that were entered in the Cc field) will see who else you sent the email to. For example:
To: exampleA@aol.com
Cc: exampleB@aol.com, exampleC@aol.com
In this example, I have sent an email to ‘A’. I have also sent the same copy to ‘B’ and ‘C’. Recipient A knows that I sent the email to B and C, while recipient B knows that I sent the email to A and C, and recipient C also knows that I sent the email to A and B. So everyone knows that I sent the email to everyone. If you want to keep it private, then go to Bcc.
Bcc- stands for Blind Carbon Copy. In the Bcc line, you must also put all the email addresses you want to send your email to. Separate the email addresses by a comma. The difference from Cc is that all the recipients cannot see who else you are sending the email to. I will use the same example:
To: exampleA@aol.com
Bcc: exampleB@aol.com, exampleC@aol.com
In this example, I have sent an email to ‘A’. I have also sent the same copy to ‘B’ and ‘C’. Recipient A does not know that I sent the email to B and C, but recipient B and C do know that I sent the email to A. This is because A is in the ‘To’ field. However, B does not know I sent the email to C, and C does not know I sent the email to B.
If you wanted to keep it even more private, then you can put your own email address in the ‘To’ field. The email would also be sent to yourself, but no one would know that you sent the email to multiple people. So all the recipients (A, B, and C) will think that the email was only sent to him. Note that there is no limit to how many email addresses you can put in the Cc and Bcc lines. If this was confusing then carefully read the examples again. Cc and Bcc aren’t used as often as the ‘To’ field, despite the fact that you can put multiple names in the ‘To’ field as well. Note that the email addresses are fully shared by all the recipients.
Forward and Reply:
Reply- If a friend sends you an email asking if you wanted to go to the park this evening, then you would have to reply, right? This is done easily by selecting the email in your inbox and clicking the “Reply” button. It should then open up to a new mail window where you can write back to your friend. The ‘To’ line should already contain your friend’s email address, and the subject line should automatically read, “Re: Park this evening”. When your friend receives the email, he will see his original email below your reply email. If he wants, he can choose to reply to your reply, and the subject should read “Re: re: Park this evening”. When you receive his email in your inbox, then you will see his original email, your reply email, and on top his reply-reply email. Note that this is all in the same email. You can reply to each other an infinite number of times.
Forward- Let’s say you receive an email about pie. You have another friend who happens to love pie, and you think that this friend should see this email. This is where forwarding an email comes in handy. You select the email in your inbox that you want to forward, then you find the “Forward” button, and a new mail window should open up. The ‘To’ line should already contain your pie-loving friend’s email address, and the subject line should automatically read, “Fwd: Pie lovers should read this!” You don’t have to write anything (unless you want to add additional comments, such as ‘This email is for you’). All you do is press “Send” and your friend will get that email and any other additional comments you made. Note that the email address of the person who originally wrote the email about pie will be shown. You can forward a forwarded email; so the subject would read, “Fwd: Fw: Pie Lovers should read this!”.
The Old, the New, the Sent, the Deleted, and last and certainly least—the Spam:
Within your mailbox you will find a section for New mail, Old mail, Sent mail, Recently Deleted mail, and your Spam Folder. I will explain each:
New mail and Old mail- Sometimes combined into one large section, these sections hold all your new mail (mail you haven’t read yet or have read but chose to “Keep as New”) and your old mail (mail you have read and wish to keep). These sections are also referred to as an inbox.
Sent mail- In this section you will find all the emails that you sent to people. Sometimes referred as an outbox.
Recently Deleted mail- When you delete an email, it will move to your Recently Deleted mail section. Over time, your recently deleted emails will automatically be permanently deleted (think of this section as sort of like an incinerator). If you want to permanently delete an email immediately, then you delete it once it is already in the Recently Deleted mail section. If you accidentally delete an email that you wanted to keep, then go to the recently deleted mail section, select the email, and click “Keep as New”, which will move the email to the ‘New Mail’ section.
Spam Folder- the word ‘spam’ is actually a trademark for canned chopped meat that was pressed into a loaf. But in computer terms, spam refers to junk emails. Think of your spam folder as sort of like a prison. Depending on your email provider and your spam filter settings, emails with specific and suspicious subject lines and/or email addresses will be automatically sent to your spam folder. Sometimes, emails that are sent to the spam folder are actually innocent and emails that you want to read. There is usually a “Not Spam” button somewhere in the spam folder, which will send the selected innocent email to the “New Mail” section where it can be read and kept safely. But most of the time, emails in the spam folder are actually that pesky junk mail. Note: just because an email is not in the spam folder doesn’t mean that it isn’t spam! In fact, lots of times spam ends up in your “New Mail” folder, where it is your job to sort through your emails, find the spam, and delete it! Or in the prison analogy I used, find the convict, find the evidence, and sentence it to the death penalty (or to jail)!
But what evidence do you look for to tell whether it’s a spam?
Look at the ‘From’ column. Don’t recognize the email address? Does it look fishy? It’s probably spam, and you should delete it. Do not open it, just delete it.
You could also look at the subject line. “Free Weight Loss Coupon, Register Fast and Easy!” is obviously crap and not worth you viewing. This kind of spam is mostly comprised of scams, some of which are trying to rip you off or steal your personal information. Again, do not open it, just delete it.
IMPORTANT—Dangers of Email:
Usually contained within an attached spam email, some junk emails contain viruses or scams that can screw you up—big time! How to avoid them? Follow these guidelines:
Delete any emails that have an email address that your not familiar with
Emails that have a catchy subject line (such as “Free TV”) are usually scams. Sometimes the subject line is a trick (such as “Osama Captured”), and when you open the email up, bye-bye computer, hello stupidity). So don’t open the email and delete them.
If you open an email (that is from an unknown email address) and see an attachment, DON’T DOWNLOAD IT! You could be downloading a virus onto your computer, which then in turn could corrupt your computer’s hard drive, delete files, slow down your computer, advertise randomly on your computer (which can get quite annoying), and/or even steal your personal information that might be stored on your computer! Downloading an unknown attachment is a huge no-no. Only download an attachment if and only if you know that the person who sent you the email is trustworthy (such as a family member or close friend).
Sometimes emails might contain an invitation to some sort of party, or perhaps a date? And sometimes, if you’re instant-messaging, you might receive an IM (instant message) from some person with a confusing email address “X342GFX24” or a provocative one, such as “hot69girl” (these are examples only, not real addresses as far as I’m concerned). It may be tempting to answer them or reply to the email, but resist that urge! Many of them are scammers, abusers, pedophiles, rapists, murderers, necrophiliacs—you get the idea. Anyway, these sickos are hard to veer away from once you’ve been hooked. They will stalk you (through email) and harass you. Remember that a real human being is talking to you on the other end, which can be quite scary if you think about it. Emails and instant-messaging are very dangerous if you don’t know the guidelines. So be smart, and don’t fall into a trap!
How to Attach a File:
If you want to include a document, picture, music, short video clip, or just any other file, then follow these easy steps:
1. Look for a button within your ‘email composition window’ (the window where you type the emails) that says ‘Attachments’, or perhaps a picture of a paperclip. It will then bring up a browsing window, where you can then search for the file and click ‘open’; or, it might bring up a window with a button called ‘Browse’, to which you will then click that and search for the file.
2. It should then be self explanatory from there. Click ‘send’ to the send the email with the attachment enclosed.
Your email questions have hopefully been answered. If not, feel free to post question in comments. Happy emailing!
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Don't Get Tangled In Those Wires!
Ah, yes, wires. We all (for the most part) hate them. But of course, not all things can be wireless (not yet, at least). And that is why I have composed a list of different and common wires that are essential to a basic to somewhat intermediate level of understanding.
Uses: mainly for connecting external devices (like USB), such as hard drives, cameras, camcorders, iPods, and other devices, most essentially related to performing complicated and fast tasks (which require a fast connection, hence the nickname "firewire").
#1 USB (Universal Serial Bus)
Appearance:
Uses: mainly for connecting external devices, such as hard drives, printers, scanners, cameras etc. Also can be used to connect to Internet (as a substitute for direct Ethernet).
Notes: The picture that you see above is just the standard USB 2.0 rectangle; however, the other end of the wire might complement the device to which you are connecting the wire to.
#2 Firewire (IEEE 1394)
Appearance:
Uses: mainly for connecting external devices (like USB), such as hard drives, cameras, camcorders, iPods, and other devices, most essentially related to performing complicated and fast tasks (which require a fast connection, hence the nickname "firewire").Notes: Faster than USB but is very similar. Once again, both ends of the Firewire can be the same or different, depending on what you are connecting.
#3 Ethernet
Appearance:
Uses: Most efficient wire for establishing a direct connection to the Internet
Notes: It is possible, but not recommended, to use a special USB wire for connecting to the Internet; it will be slower and not as efficient.
#4 RCA Audio Cable/Stereo Jack
Appearance:
Uses: used for plugging in speakers or headphones to an audio device. The RCA audio cable plugs primarily into your TV.
Notes: There are about four general combinations for an audio cable. You got 1): a stereo to stereo jack; 2): a stereo to headphones or speakers; 3): an RCA to stereo jack; and 4): an RCA to RCA. Huy.
#5 VGA/DVI/SVideo
Appearances:
Uses: VGA (Video Graphics Array) and DVI (Digital Visual Interface) are both different types of video connections from the computer to the monitor. (Check out the entry The Truth About Monitors to learn more about DVI, VGA, and monitors). SVideo is similar but it is used for connecting the computer (or other device, such as a video camera) to a TV.
Notes: DVI generally brings a more precise picture than VGA does; there are DVI to VGA converters; S Video is equivalent to the Red-Yellow-White wires that plug into the TV.
Save, Save, Save!
You know the gameshow, The Weakest Link? The object of the game is to try to bank the most money possible each turn for the team. You can do this by saying "Bank!" right before your question is asked. If you banked in time, the money is deposited "in the kitty" and it is permanent.
Why do I bore you with something completely irrelevant to computers? Well, banking in The Weakest Link and saving a file on a computer are very similar to each other.
Let's say you're working on a document. As you're typing, you come up with great words and lines and are quite proud of your work. But, just as you're about to punch in that period, your computer stops you and flashes you with an error message. When you click "ok", the document closes and you're left staring at the blank desktop. You frantically search for the file, and then reality hits you: it's gone. Period.
Let's come back to The Weakest Link for a second. Your team so far has reached the $50,000 mark on the 6th round (out of 8 rounds). It is your turn. You feel confident. The question is asked and it was harder than you expected, and, consequently, you have absolutely no idea what the answer is. It's to late to bank. So, you take a wild guess and hope for the best. To your utter dismay, it is wrong. Thus, your team loses an opportunity for $50,000 and possibly more. Had you have banked, the team would like you and would've had over $50,000 in the kitty.
The moral of the story is: Bank, Bank, Bank--Save, Save, Save!
In other words, whenever working on an important file, always save early and often! You never know when something unexpectedly awful might happen and you lose your work forever. Most of the time, the "save" option is under "File". But an easier and quicker way to save is by using the keyboard shortcut ctrl + S. Check out the entry on Handy Keyboard Shortcuts to learn more about keyboard shortcut combinations that can save you a lot of time!
There is no harm in saving often, so why not do it? Better be safe than sorry!
Why do I bore you with something completely irrelevant to computers? Well, banking in The Weakest Link and saving a file on a computer are very similar to each other.
Let's say you're working on a document. As you're typing, you come up with great words and lines and are quite proud of your work. But, just as you're about to punch in that period, your computer stops you and flashes you with an error message. When you click "ok", the document closes and you're left staring at the blank desktop. You frantically search for the file, and then reality hits you: it's gone. Period.
Let's come back to The Weakest Link for a second. Your team so far has reached the $50,000 mark on the 6th round (out of 8 rounds). It is your turn. You feel confident. The question is asked and it was harder than you expected, and, consequently, you have absolutely no idea what the answer is. It's to late to bank. So, you take a wild guess and hope for the best. To your utter dismay, it is wrong. Thus, your team loses an opportunity for $50,000 and possibly more. Had you have banked, the team would like you and would've had over $50,000 in the kitty.
The moral of the story is: Bank, Bank, Bank--Save, Save, Save!
In other words, whenever working on an important file, always save early and often! You never know when something unexpectedly awful might happen and you lose your work forever. Most of the time, the "save" option is under "File". But an easier and quicker way to save is by using the keyboard shortcut ctrl + S. Check out the entry on Handy Keyboard Shortcuts to learn more about keyboard shortcut combinations that can save you a lot of time!
There is no harm in saving often, so why not do it? Better be safe than sorry!
Mac vs. Windows: The Battle of the Platforms
There are quite a few platforms out there, and by "platforms" I mean types of operating systems. Over the past years, Microsoft Windows operating systems have been dominant, although the Macintosh (Apple) operating systems have been catching up lately.
Unfortunately, the chart is small, so you might have to zoom in on the page in order to see the words clearly. (Hold down ctrl and roll the mouse wheel up and down to zoom in and out)
There are many disadvantages and advantages that both operating systems have over one another, so I have put together this here chart below to help you decide which operating system you like best:
Unfortunately, the chart is small, so you might have to zoom in on the page in order to see the words clearly. (Hold down ctrl and roll the mouse wheel up and down to zoom in and out) Staying Healthy: Avoiding Those Viruses
NOTE: This article was originally written for Windows users on JabComputer. Macs are less susceptible to viruses and thus most of these you don't have to worry about.
A virus infects a living organism and then makes copies of itself, thus spreading throughout the body. Some can be cured easily while others can make you very ill. If not treated properly, some can be quite deadly. You can prevent viruses by avoiding contagious individuals as well as unhealthy or unsanitary conditions. You also have a less likely chance of catching a virus if you have a healthy and strong immune system.
Note that I am not here to give you a health lesson, but biological viruses are very similar to computer viruses.
In short, viruses are a type of software that infects a computer. But how do these viruses arise?
People are the main source. Programming geniuses who use their powers for evil and not good...
They make viruses for:
-Fun (they take pleasure out of corrupting other peoples' computers)
-Money (some people pay others to make and distribute viruses for disruptive or destructive purposes)
-Experiments (some people test viruses to see how infectious they are and which anti-virus programs can stop them)
-Accidents (Whoops! Instead of creating a man you created a monster! Viruses can sometimes be a result of miscalculations and computer-generated errors)
There are many different types of viruses, some more deadly than others. Take a look at my ranking system:
Rank #1. Low Risk - Viruses that are just annoying and potentially harmless, may slow down your computer. Choosing to keep this type of virus on your computer is like choosing to stay with a cold. If you don't mind living with a stuffy and runny nose, an irritated throat, and a headache from time to time, then you'll be fine.
Rank #2. Medium Risk - Viruses that are annoying (although all viruses are annoying) and can be harmful if not treated. Will most likely slow down your computer, decrease efficiency; may corrupt your computer in extreme cases. Choosing to keep this type is like choosing to stay with cancer or perhaps a benign tumor that might develop into something serious. If death (that could've been prevented) don't scare you, then relax.
Rank #3. High Risk - Viruses that are extremely annoying and are harmful to your computer. Might slow down computer, bring certain processes to a halt, decrease efficiency, may erase files, and most likely will corrupt your computer if not treated. Do not choose to keep this type unless you don't mind paying for a new body, if you know what I mean...
Rank #4. Extreme Caution - Viruses that are so malicious that they are more scary than they are annoying. These viruses aim at corrupting your computer and erasing your programs, files, and data. They might come fast and without notice. Some viruses, if not detected early (like cancer), will be spreading so fast that it is virtually impossible to get rid of them. Finding out that you have this type of computer virus may be like finding out that you're going to die in 3 months!
Now that you are familiar will my ranking system, let's take a look at the common types of viruses (rated with my ranking system!):
Resident Virus
Rank: #3 - #4
Location: RAM memory.
Attack Strategy: when you open the infected program or application, the virus is released and burrows into your RAM data. Now, whenever you rename, save, copy, open a file or program, the resident virus will move in, attack and corrupt all these operations.
How To Stop It: Well, sometimes it's permanent and can't be stopped. Other times anti-virus programs will detect it and stop it from spreading. Reformatting the hard drive (erasing ALL the data) will most likely be the cure. Note that backing-up infected files on a separate hard drive will then re-infect your computer when you transfer those infected files back.
Direct-Action Virus
Rank: #3 -#4
Location: Specified program
Attack Strategy: similar to resident viruses, but the difference is that the virus infects one or programs when the original program that contains it was executed.
How To Stop It: Well, sometimes it's permanent and can't be stopped. Other times anti-virus programs will detect it and stop it from spreading. Reformatting the hard drive (erasing ALL the data) will most likely be the cure. Note that backing-up infected files on a separate hard drive will then re-infect your computer when you transfer those infected files back.
Overwrite Virus
Rank: #3
Location: Files
Attack Strategy: infected files are corrupted, deleted, or partially rendered so they are not openable or usable.
How To Stop It: to clean an infected file you must erase it, so when a file is infected it is pretty much gone...
Boot Virus
Rank: #4
Location: Boot sector of a hard drive or floppy disk
Attack Strategy: the virus will infect the boot sector of the disk, which is critical to storing information and thus booting, or starting, the computer
How To Stop It: Once you're infected you must reformat the hard drive (or buy a new one). Boot viruses are most commonly spread through floppy disks! Therefore, never start your computer with an unknown floppy disk in the drive.
Macro Virus
Rank: #2, #3
Location: Macro-containing program
Attack Strategy: A macro is a single instruction that expands automatically when executed. Many programs contain macros, such as the commonly used Microsoft Word and Excel. Macro viruses take advantage of this "expanding" feature by infecting a macro in one program. When the macro is executed, it expands and can reach the "global macro template". When this is infected, then any other file you open will then become infected, thus spreading the virus.
How To Sop It: Anti-virus software may detect it, and don't enable macros unless you're sure that you can trust them!
Directory Virus
Rank: #3, #4
Location: Program File
Attack Strategy: when the infected program is executed (mainly through the .exe extension), the virus changes the path on which the program is set to run. Therefore, you are indirectly running the virus by running the infected program.
How To Stop It: Once a file is infected it is impossible to locate the original program files. Prevent directory viruses by not downloading or somehow obtaining infected program files.
Polymorphic Virus
Rank: #3, #4
Location: Multiple
Attack Strategy: this virus makes varied copies of itself, in which each copy is different from the other, although they all serve the same function. They do this to disguise themselves and prevent virus scanners from detecting all instances of the virus.
How To Stop It: Since this type of virus is very hard to detect, it is very hard to stop completely. Reformatting or replacing the hard drive is recommended (although your computer will probably crash before you even notice it is a complete polymorphic virus, to which you will be forced to reformat or replace).
Virus Hoax
Rank: #1
Location: Emails
Attack Strategy: Virus hoaxes aren't considered to be real viruses. They are not harmful to your computer (they are more harmful to your sanity). A virus hoax is just a pesky email that informs you on a deadly virus that doesn't even exist. Below is an example of what a virus hoax might look like:
Subject: Beware of the LooBaba Virus!
Message: As of February 18, 2007, the dangerous and highly infectious LooBaba virus has been released. Do NOT open any email with subject lines "An Invitation From a Friend!", "Nuclear Missile is Destroyed", or "Mars is Suffering From Momentary and Deadly Collapse".
If you open the email, a picture of a worm eating files will signify him eating your documents!!!
Forward this message to all the people you know!!!!
What a bunch of crap. Sure, viruses are spread through emails, but only through downloaded attachments. Of course, you should never download an unknown attachment. Note that while most virus hoaxes are meant just for aggravating people, they can be potentially dangerous. For example, a virus programmer could be purposely sending the LooBaba hoax. People who know about virus hoaxes will then assume that the LooBaba virus is madeup. However, then the virus programmer will actually create the LooBaba virus, and since people think it doesn't exist, they will not take any caution. This sends a wave of confusion and panic. Is there really such thing as the LooBaba virus or is it just a hoax? Thus brings the annoyance of virus hoaxes!
How To Stop It: How do you determine whether an email is a virus hoax? The things to look for in a virus hoax have been highlighted in light blue in the LooBaba example above.
-The email informs you about the virus very seriously and scares you silly
-The email tells you not to open any emails or download any attachments with gripping subject lines
-The email usually tells you that the virus contains a little graphic image
-The email asks you to forward the message to all people you know (thus the "virus" hoax spreads...)
If you do receive a hoax, then ignore and delete it. Do not forward it to other people!
To find more information on viruses and emails, check out the entry "Email: Info, Help, & Tips"
Worms
Worms are similar to viruses in the sense that they are able to replicate and spread throughout the system and to other computers; the only difference is that they do not need to attach themselves to a host program. Many worms can be detected by anti-virus programs.
Trojan Horse
Remember the siege of Troy? The Greeks presented a hollow wooden horse to the Trojans as a harmless gift. Little did the Trojans know that the horse was filled with Greek soldiers that would the open the city gates at nightfall and let the waiting Greek army storm in. Computer Trojan Horses appear harmless to you and the computer at first, but once it's inside the city gates, your infected. Anti-virus software will usually detect Trojans, although they might not identify them immediately as Trojans. Note that some Trojans can sneak past some Anti-virus software, as they seem might seem "too small" to notice...
It is important to have a strong immune system as it is equally important to have strong virus protection.
Remember these words of inspiration if ever infected by any of these viruses:
"The Virus is strong, but you are stronger. Do not let The Virus conquer you; conquer The Virus!"
A virus infects a living organism and then makes copies of itself, thus spreading throughout the body. Some can be cured easily while others can make you very ill. If not treated properly, some can be quite deadly. You can prevent viruses by avoiding contagious individuals as well as unhealthy or unsanitary conditions. You also have a less likely chance of catching a virus if you have a healthy and strong immune system.
Note that I am not here to give you a health lesson, but biological viruses are very similar to computer viruses.
In short, viruses are a type of software that infects a computer. But how do these viruses arise?
People are the main source. Programming geniuses who use their powers for evil and not good...
They make viruses for:
-Fun (they take pleasure out of corrupting other peoples' computers)
-Money (some people pay others to make and distribute viruses for disruptive or destructive purposes)
-Experiments (some people test viruses to see how infectious they are and which anti-virus programs can stop them)
-Accidents (Whoops! Instead of creating a man you created a monster! Viruses can sometimes be a result of miscalculations and computer-generated errors)
There are many different types of viruses, some more deadly than others. Take a look at my ranking system:
Rank #1. Low Risk - Viruses that are just annoying and potentially harmless, may slow down your computer. Choosing to keep this type of virus on your computer is like choosing to stay with a cold. If you don't mind living with a stuffy and runny nose, an irritated throat, and a headache from time to time, then you'll be fine.
Rank #2. Medium Risk - Viruses that are annoying (although all viruses are annoying) and can be harmful if not treated. Will most likely slow down your computer, decrease efficiency; may corrupt your computer in extreme cases. Choosing to keep this type is like choosing to stay with cancer or perhaps a benign tumor that might develop into something serious. If death (that could've been prevented) don't scare you, then relax.
Rank #3. High Risk - Viruses that are extremely annoying and are harmful to your computer. Might slow down computer, bring certain processes to a halt, decrease efficiency, may erase files, and most likely will corrupt your computer if not treated. Do not choose to keep this type unless you don't mind paying for a new body, if you know what I mean...
Rank #4. Extreme Caution - Viruses that are so malicious that they are more scary than they are annoying. These viruses aim at corrupting your computer and erasing your programs, files, and data. They might come fast and without notice. Some viruses, if not detected early (like cancer), will be spreading so fast that it is virtually impossible to get rid of them. Finding out that you have this type of computer virus may be like finding out that you're going to die in 3 months!
Now that you are familiar will my ranking system, let's take a look at the common types of viruses (rated with my ranking system!):
Resident Virus
Rank: #3 - #4
Location: RAM memory.
Attack Strategy: when you open the infected program or application, the virus is released and burrows into your RAM data. Now, whenever you rename, save, copy, open a file or program, the resident virus will move in, attack and corrupt all these operations.
How To Stop It: Well, sometimes it's permanent and can't be stopped. Other times anti-virus programs will detect it and stop it from spreading. Reformatting the hard drive (erasing ALL the data) will most likely be the cure. Note that backing-up infected files on a separate hard drive will then re-infect your computer when you transfer those infected files back.
Direct-Action Virus
Rank: #3 -#4
Location: Specified program
Attack Strategy: similar to resident viruses, but the difference is that the virus infects one or programs when the original program that contains it was executed.
How To Stop It: Well, sometimes it's permanent and can't be stopped. Other times anti-virus programs will detect it and stop it from spreading. Reformatting the hard drive (erasing ALL the data) will most likely be the cure. Note that backing-up infected files on a separate hard drive will then re-infect your computer when you transfer those infected files back.
Overwrite Virus
Rank: #3
Location: Files
Attack Strategy: infected files are corrupted, deleted, or partially rendered so they are not openable or usable.
How To Stop It: to clean an infected file you must erase it, so when a file is infected it is pretty much gone...
Boot Virus
Rank: #4
Location: Boot sector of a hard drive or floppy disk
Attack Strategy: the virus will infect the boot sector of the disk, which is critical to storing information and thus booting, or starting, the computer
How To Stop It: Once you're infected you must reformat the hard drive (or buy a new one). Boot viruses are most commonly spread through floppy disks! Therefore, never start your computer with an unknown floppy disk in the drive.
Macro Virus
Rank: #2, #3
Location: Macro-containing program
Attack Strategy: A macro is a single instruction that expands automatically when executed. Many programs contain macros, such as the commonly used Microsoft Word and Excel. Macro viruses take advantage of this "expanding" feature by infecting a macro in one program. When the macro is executed, it expands and can reach the "global macro template". When this is infected, then any other file you open will then become infected, thus spreading the virus.
How To Sop It: Anti-virus software may detect it, and don't enable macros unless you're sure that you can trust them!
Directory Virus
Rank: #3, #4
Location: Program File
Attack Strategy: when the infected program is executed (mainly through the .exe extension), the virus changes the path on which the program is set to run. Therefore, you are indirectly running the virus by running the infected program.
How To Stop It: Once a file is infected it is impossible to locate the original program files. Prevent directory viruses by not downloading or somehow obtaining infected program files.
Polymorphic Virus
Rank: #3, #4
Location: Multiple
Attack Strategy: this virus makes varied copies of itself, in which each copy is different from the other, although they all serve the same function. They do this to disguise themselves and prevent virus scanners from detecting all instances of the virus.
How To Stop It: Since this type of virus is very hard to detect, it is very hard to stop completely. Reformatting or replacing the hard drive is recommended (although your computer will probably crash before you even notice it is a complete polymorphic virus, to which you will be forced to reformat or replace).
Virus Hoax
Rank: #1
Location: Emails
Attack Strategy: Virus hoaxes aren't considered to be real viruses. They are not harmful to your computer (they are more harmful to your sanity). A virus hoax is just a pesky email that informs you on a deadly virus that doesn't even exist. Below is an example of what a virus hoax might look like:
Subject: Beware of the LooBaba Virus!
Message: As of February 18, 2007, the dangerous and highly infectious LooBaba virus has been released. Do NOT open any email with subject lines "An Invitation From a Friend!", "Nuclear Missile is Destroyed", or "Mars is Suffering From Momentary and Deadly Collapse".
If you open the email, a picture of a worm eating files will signify him eating your documents!!!
Forward this message to all the people you know!!!!
What a bunch of crap. Sure, viruses are spread through emails, but only through downloaded attachments. Of course, you should never download an unknown attachment. Note that while most virus hoaxes are meant just for aggravating people, they can be potentially dangerous. For example, a virus programmer could be purposely sending the LooBaba hoax. People who know about virus hoaxes will then assume that the LooBaba virus is madeup. However, then the virus programmer will actually create the LooBaba virus, and since people think it doesn't exist, they will not take any caution. This sends a wave of confusion and panic. Is there really such thing as the LooBaba virus or is it just a hoax? Thus brings the annoyance of virus hoaxes!
How To Stop It: How do you determine whether an email is a virus hoax? The things to look for in a virus hoax have been highlighted in light blue in the LooBaba example above.
-The email informs you about the virus very seriously and scares you silly
-The email tells you not to open any emails or download any attachments with gripping subject lines
-The email usually tells you that the virus contains a little graphic image
-The email asks you to forward the message to all people you know (thus the "virus" hoax spreads...)
If you do receive a hoax, then ignore and delete it. Do not forward it to other people!
To find more information on viruses and emails, check out the entry "Email: Info, Help, & Tips"
Worms
Worms are similar to viruses in the sense that they are able to replicate and spread throughout the system and to other computers; the only difference is that they do not need to attach themselves to a host program. Many worms can be detected by anti-virus programs.
Trojan Horse
Remember the siege of Troy? The Greeks presented a hollow wooden horse to the Trojans as a harmless gift. Little did the Trojans know that the horse was filled with Greek soldiers that would the open the city gates at nightfall and let the waiting Greek army storm in. Computer Trojan Horses appear harmless to you and the computer at first, but once it's inside the city gates, your infected. Anti-virus software will usually detect Trojans, although they might not identify them immediately as Trojans. Note that some Trojans can sneak past some Anti-virus software, as they seem might seem "too small" to notice...
It is important to have a strong immune system as it is equally important to have strong virus protection.
Remember these words of inspiration if ever infected by any of these viruses:
"The Virus is strong, but you are stronger. Do not let The Virus conquer you; conquer The Virus!"
To Buy or Not to Buy...
You goin' computer or hardware/software shopping?
If you really want to spend all your money on a brand new super computer that you don't need, then that's fine with me. However, for those of us who want to buy only what we need or desire, then take a look at the extensive analysis below:
The People Who Only Use a Computer to Check Their Email, Type, and Read Great Blogs (such as this one):
Operating System : Mac OS X or Windows XP
Hard Drive : 40 GB (at least)
System RAM : 256 MB or 512 MB
CPU : Intel; Pentium 4, Sempron, Celeron, AMD; Athlon XP; Mac G4)
Video Card : PCI or AGP 32MB or 64MB, SVGA adapter (most motherboards have video cards integrated in them already)
Monitor : 15 in, although it really depends on how big you like it...
Optical Drive : 48 x CD-ROM drive, although if you want to burn CD's, then get a CD RW)
Printer : a standard inkjet printer
Modem : for connecting to the internet (DSL or Cable)
Sound Card : (should already be integrated in the motherboard)
Phew! If you have some or absolutely no idea of what any of those things mean, don't worry! These are just details that aren't completely necessary for buying a retail computer (unless you're going to build a PC yourself; note that you can't build Macs, unless you work for Apple Inc, know what you're doing, and have access to Apple's arsenal of equipment).
But to simplify things a little, just pay attention to the things highlighted in light blue.
Note that computers in those regular computer stores (such as Best Buy, for instance) will probably not sell you a computer that has 32 MB of RAM and just a regular CD-ROM drive. In this case, try to buy it from an old computer shop (a computer junkie, or a junk shop that sells computer junk). Perhaps you know a friend who can shop and build something for you. Ordering online is a great way to find old parts and computers.
But, How 'Bout The People Who Use Their Computer to Run Intermediate Applications (such as editing pictures), and Maybe Play Games on The Side, But Do Not Require an Advanced Video Card:
Operating System : Mac OS X, Windows XP or Vista
Hard Drive : 80 GB (at least)
System RAM : 256 MB or 512 MB (512 MB or more for gaming and video editing)
CPU : Intel; Pentium 4. AMD; Athlon XP, Athlon 64; Mac G4 or G5)
Video Card : PCI, PCI Express, AGP 64MB or 128MB (128 MB or more for gaming and video editing), NVIDIA or ATI Chipset
Monitor : 15 - 17 in, although it really depends on how big you like it...
Optical Drive : CD burner, you might also want to get a 16x DVD burner (most drives that can burn DVDs can burn CDs too)
Printer : a standard inkjet or laser printer
Modem : for connecting to the internet (DSL or Cable)
Sound Card : a PCI audio card (some sound cards are already be integrated in the motherboard)
And Now For The Typical Super-Fast-Multimedia-Gaming-Top-o'-The-Line Computer:
Operating System : Mac OS X, Windows XP or Vista
Hard Drive : 140 GB (at least)
System RAM : 1 GB (at least)
CPU : (We're talkin' fast here) Intel; Pentium 4. AMD; Athlon 64 or X2; Mac G5)
Video Card : PCI Express, AGP 256MB or 512 MB, NVIDIA or ATI Chipset
Monitor : 17 in & up, although it really depends on how big you like it...
Optical Drive : 16x DVD burner (most drives that can burn DVDs can burn CDs too)
Printer : a standard inkjet or laser printer
Modem : for connecting to the internet (DSL or Cable)
Sound Card : a PCI audio card (some sound cards are already be integrated in the motherboard)
These requirements can be taken loosely and should not be followed strictly; you may be a person who falls between some of these categories. But whatever it be, buy what you need and desire...
Note: For information and advice on computer shopping what some of this computer gibberish means, research or check out some of these relevant entries: Bits and Bytes, The Scoop About Refurbished Hardware, The Scoop About OEM Software, Some Backup Advice, The Truth About Monitors.
If you really want to spend all your money on a brand new super computer that you don't need, then that's fine with me. However, for those of us who want to buy only what we need or desire, then take a look at the extensive analysis below:
The People Who Only Use a Computer to Check Their Email, Type, and Read Great Blogs (such as this one):
Operating System : Mac OS X or Windows XP
Hard Drive : 40 GB (at least)
System RAM : 256 MB or 512 MB
CPU : Intel; Pentium 4, Sempron, Celeron, AMD; Athlon XP; Mac G4)
Video Card : PCI or AGP 32MB or 64MB, SVGA adapter (most motherboards have video cards integrated in them already)
Monitor : 15 in, although it really depends on how big you like it...
Optical Drive : 48 x CD-ROM drive, although if you want to burn CD's, then get a CD RW)
Printer : a standard inkjet printer
Modem : for connecting to the internet (DSL or Cable)
Sound Card : (should already be integrated in the motherboard)
Phew! If you have some or absolutely no idea of what any of those things mean, don't worry! These are just details that aren't completely necessary for buying a retail computer (unless you're going to build a PC yourself; note that you can't build Macs, unless you work for Apple Inc, know what you're doing, and have access to Apple's arsenal of equipment).
But to simplify things a little, just pay attention to the things highlighted in light blue.
Note that computers in those regular computer stores (such as Best Buy, for instance) will probably not sell you a computer that has 32 MB of RAM and just a regular CD-ROM drive. In this case, try to buy it from an old computer shop (a computer junkie, or a junk shop that sells computer junk). Perhaps you know a friend who can shop and build something for you. Ordering online is a great way to find old parts and computers.
But, How 'Bout The People Who Use Their Computer to Run Intermediate Applications (such as editing pictures), and Maybe Play Games on The Side, But Do Not Require an Advanced Video Card:
Operating System : Mac OS X, Windows XP or Vista
Hard Drive : 80 GB (at least)
System RAM : 256 MB or 512 MB (512 MB or more for gaming and video editing)
CPU : Intel; Pentium 4. AMD; Athlon XP, Athlon 64; Mac G4 or G5)
Video Card : PCI, PCI Express, AGP 64MB or 128MB (128 MB or more for gaming and video editing), NVIDIA or ATI Chipset
Monitor : 15 - 17 in, although it really depends on how big you like it...
Optical Drive : CD burner, you might also want to get a 16x DVD burner (most drives that can burn DVDs can burn CDs too)
Printer : a standard inkjet or laser printer
Modem : for connecting to the internet (DSL or Cable)
Sound Card : a PCI audio card (some sound cards are already be integrated in the motherboard)
And Now For The Typical Super-Fast-Multimedia-Gaming-Top-o'-The-Line Computer:
Operating System : Mac OS X, Windows XP or Vista
Hard Drive : 140 GB (at least)
System RAM : 1 GB (at least)
CPU : (We're talkin' fast here) Intel; Pentium 4. AMD; Athlon 64 or X2; Mac G5)
Video Card : PCI Express, AGP 256MB or 512 MB, NVIDIA or ATI Chipset
Monitor : 17 in & up, although it really depends on how big you like it...
Optical Drive : 16x DVD burner (most drives that can burn DVDs can burn CDs too)
Printer : a standard inkjet or laser printer
Modem : for connecting to the internet (DSL or Cable)
Sound Card : a PCI audio card (some sound cards are already be integrated in the motherboard)
These requirements can be taken loosely and should not be followed strictly; you may be a person who falls between some of these categories. But whatever it be, buy what you need and desire...
Note: For information and advice on computer shopping what some of this computer gibberish means, research or check out some of these relevant entries: Bits and Bytes, The Scoop About Refurbished Hardware, The Scoop About OEM Software, Some Backup Advice, The Truth About Monitors.
Bits & Bytes
Welcome to the realm of memory!
Bits are the lowest unit of memory. A byte is 8 bits. A kilobyte is 1024 bytes. I could continue on like this, but the chart below is quite useful. It will look scary to some, but really it's quite fascinating.
Bits are the lowest unit of memory. A byte is 8 bits. A kilobyte is 1024 bytes. I could continue on like this, but the chart below is quite useful. It will look scary to some, but really it's quite fascinating.
Computers in this day and age usually come with gigabyte (GB) hard drives (around 40 GB to 500 GB). Most people don't need more than 150 GB, and even that's saying much. (Check out the "Some Backup Advice" entry for info on storage space).
But more recently, computers can hold 2 terabytes (2000 GB) of space (most likely being a combination of multiple hard drives). I would say that 95% of the people who use computers frequently don't need this huge amount of space. Can you believe that there's things larger than a terabyte?
As technology advances though, we might have applications that take up larger amounts of space, so we might eventually consider 2 terabytes as primitive as storing 2 megabytes.
Here are some fun facts that gives you an idea of how much information these bytes can hold:
But more recently, computers can hold 2 terabytes (2000 GB) of space (most likely being a combination of multiple hard drives). I would say that 95% of the people who use computers frequently don't need this huge amount of space. Can you believe that there's things larger than a terabyte?
As technology advances though, we might have applications that take up larger amounts of space, so we might eventually consider 2 terabytes as primitive as storing 2 megabytes.
Here are some fun facts that gives you an idea of how much information these bytes can hold:
How to Take a Screenshot (Both on a PC and Mac)
A screenshot is a still picture of the computer screen. While screenshots are commonly used, many people don't know how to take one.
How to Take a Screenshot on a PC
PCs offer a rigid screenshot method; however, you can manipulate and edit the screenshot later.
Step 1 - First of all, get your screen ready by opening any files, programs, or anything else you want to take a screenshot of. In other words, "set the scene".
Step 2 - Once you have your screen set up, look at your keyboard. There is a key labeled "prt scr"on the top right side of the keyboard, to the right of F12. If you still can't find it, it's up-right diagonal from the "backspace" key. Once you locate it, press it once.
Step 3 - The computer has just taken a screenshot of the screen. But how do you view your picture? Well, it turns out that the picture has been saved on the clipboard, which means you have to paste it. Simply go to the Paint program (under Start > All Programs > Accessories > Paint). If you have another image editor, you can paste the screenshot in that program.
Step 4 - On the top, go to Edit > Paste (or ctrl-v), and bang! There's your screenshot! You can now edit the screenshot using Paint or any other image editor. If you want to keep the screenshot, then save it.
How to Take a Screenshot on a Mac
Macs are more flexible with their screenshots.
Step 1 - First of all, get your screen ready by opening any files, programs, or anything else you want to take a screenshot of. In other words, "set the scene".
Step 2 - Once you have your screen set up, look at your keyboard. Taking a screenshot a Macs involves a key combination. Hold down the keys: Shift + ⌘ + 3. You should hear a sound of a camera. Go to the desktop and you should see a file called "Picture 1". Double-click on the file and there's your shot. You can then work on that image in an image editor.
Step 3 - Another way is taking a screenshot of just a section of the screen. Hold down the keys: Shift + ⌘ + 4. Your cursor will turn into what appears to be a cross-hair or target, and you are free to click and drag the area you want to photograph. Once you release, you will see the file on your desktop.
Congratulations! You can now photograph your screen without using that digital camera!
How to Take a Screenshot on a PC
PCs offer a rigid screenshot method; however, you can manipulate and edit the screenshot later.
Step 1 - First of all, get your screen ready by opening any files, programs, or anything else you want to take a screenshot of. In other words, "set the scene".
Step 2 - Once you have your screen set up, look at your keyboard. There is a key labeled "prt scr"on the top right side of the keyboard, to the right of F12. If you still can't find it, it's up-right diagonal from the "backspace" key. Once you locate it, press it once.
Step 3 - The computer has just taken a screenshot of the screen. But how do you view your picture? Well, it turns out that the picture has been saved on the clipboard, which means you have to paste it. Simply go to the Paint program (under Start > All Programs > Accessories > Paint). If you have another image editor, you can paste the screenshot in that program.
Step 4 - On the top, go to Edit > Paste (or ctrl-v), and bang! There's your screenshot! You can now edit the screenshot using Paint or any other image editor. If you want to keep the screenshot, then save it.
How to Take a Screenshot on a Mac
Macs are more flexible with their screenshots.
Step 1 - First of all, get your screen ready by opening any files, programs, or anything else you want to take a screenshot of. In other words, "set the scene".
Step 2 - Once you have your screen set up, look at your keyboard. Taking a screenshot a Macs involves a key combination. Hold down the keys: Shift + ⌘ + 3. You should hear a sound of a camera. Go to the desktop and you should see a file called "Picture 1". Double-click on the file and there's your shot. You can then work on that image in an image editor.
Step 3 - Another way is taking a screenshot of just a section of the screen. Hold down the keys: Shift + ⌘ + 4. Your cursor will turn into what appears to be a cross-hair or target, and you are free to click and drag the area you want to photograph. Once you release, you will see the file on your desktop.
Congratulations! You can now photograph your screen without using that digital camera!
The Scoop About Refurbished Hardware
What is refurbished hardware?
"Refurbished" literally means redecorated or renovated. This description might seem harmless at first, but beware! When it comes to hardware, refurbished means repaired, re-dealt, and re-stupefied.
A refurbished hardware component is one that was previously defective or damaged and is returned to the company which then fixes it (or at least tries to fix it). They then resell that refurbished component to another retailer.
As always, I will give the advantages and disadvantages of a Refurbished component.
The Advantage of a Refurbished Component
- It is usually much cheaper than a new item
The Disadvantages of a Refurbished Component
- You don't know why the item was returned in the first place.
- The warranty is usually less than a regular warranty on a new item.
- You don't know whether the item has been completely retested.
- You don't know whether the item was fully fixed or if could be fixed in the first place.
- There are usually no return policies (just like OEM products), so if it breaks (again), you might as well throw it in the hamper! (No, don't actually throw it in the hamper).
So, the final story is (which is same situation with car salesman trying to sell you a used car): don't buy a refurbished item unless you know everything about it beforehand and the dealer is trustworthy.
"Refurbished" literally means redecorated or renovated. This description might seem harmless at first, but beware! When it comes to hardware, refurbished means repaired, re-dealt, and re-stupefied.
A refurbished hardware component is one that was previously defective or damaged and is returned to the company which then fixes it (or at least tries to fix it). They then resell that refurbished component to another retailer.
As always, I will give the advantages and disadvantages of a Refurbished component.
The Advantage of a Refurbished Component
- It is usually much cheaper than a new item
The Disadvantages of a Refurbished Component
- You don't know why the item was returned in the first place.
- The warranty is usually less than a regular warranty on a new item.
- You don't know whether the item has been completely retested.
- You don't know whether the item was fully fixed or if could be fixed in the first place.
- There are usually no return policies (just like OEM products), so if it breaks (again), you might as well throw it in the hamper! (No, don't actually throw it in the hamper).
So, the final story is (which is same situation with car salesman trying to sell you a used car): don't buy a refurbished item unless you know everything about it beforehand and the dealer is trustworthy.
Handy Keyboard Shortcuts
Keyboard shortcuts are simple key-combinations that when pressed execute a certain command. Keyboard shortcuts are for regular commands that can be accessed using the mouse. Shortcuts are much more efficient and will save you seconds (you also look like you know computers).
Mac and PC both use the same or very similar keyboard shortcuts, but there are minor differences; instead of pressing 'ctrl' on PCs you press the '⌘' with Macs.
Below is the list of commonly used keyboard shortcuts for Macs.
Most of these will work for Windows as well. Shortcuts with an asterisk (*) next to the name will only work on Macintosh computers.
Press and hold down the Control Key (ctrl) or Apple Key (⌘) and tap the corresponding letter key once to perform the desired action:
Note: These shortcuts might vary depending on the program or application you are using
Press:
ctrl or ⌘:
C - Copy (copy selected or highlighted text or image)
V - Paste (paste the text or image just copied)
X - Cut (same function as 'copy' except it deletes the selected text or image)
B - Bold (bolds the selected or highlighted text or image)
I - Italics (italicizes the selected or highlighted text or image)
U - Underline (underlines the selected or highlighted text or image)
Z - Undo (undos or takes back the last action that was done)
Y - Redo (redoes the last undo)
P - Print (prints out a page or pages from the computer using a selected printer)
O - Open (open a file or document from a specific program)
A - All (highlights all text and/or images that appears on the current page)
S - Save (saves current file or document)
F - Find (brings up a window that allows you to enter the text you are looking for on the current page)
N - New (new document, file, template, window, etc., depending on the program used)
Q - Quit* (quits or exits out of current program)
H - Hide* (hides current program from view. Press ⌘ H again to un-hide or show)
People are always hesitant to try out the shortcuts and always "do it the long way". Once you know these shortcuts, your life will speed up (you'll see). Try to remember and practice them often (perhaps write it on a post-it note and stick on the side of your computer monitor). Along your journey of becoming a shortcut master, you will discover new and more complex shortcuts that you can use at your disposal.
Good Luck!
Mac and PC both use the same or very similar keyboard shortcuts, but there are minor differences; instead of pressing 'ctrl' on PCs you press the '⌘' with Macs.
Below is the list of commonly used keyboard shortcuts for Macs.
Most of these will work for Windows as well. Shortcuts with an asterisk (*) next to the name will only work on Macintosh computers.
Press and hold down the Control Key (ctrl) or Apple Key (⌘) and tap the corresponding letter key once to perform the desired action:
Note: These shortcuts might vary depending on the program or application you are using
Press:
ctrl or ⌘:
C - Copy (copy selected or highlighted text or image)
V - Paste (paste the text or image just copied)
X - Cut (same function as 'copy' except it deletes the selected text or image)
B - Bold (bolds the selected or highlighted text or image)
I - Italics (italicizes the selected or highlighted text or image)
U - Underline (underlines the selected or highlighted text or image)
Z - Undo (undos or takes back the last action that was done)
Y - Redo (redoes the last undo)
P - Print (prints out a page or pages from the computer using a selected printer)
O - Open (open a file or document from a specific program)
A - All (highlights all text and/or images that appears on the current page)
S - Save (saves current file or document)
F - Find (brings up a window that allows you to enter the text you are looking for on the current page)
N - New (new document, file, template, window, etc., depending on the program used)
Q - Quit* (quits or exits out of current program)
H - Hide* (hides current program from view. Press ⌘ H again to un-hide or show)
People are always hesitant to try out the shortcuts and always "do it the long way". Once you know these shortcuts, your life will speed up (you'll see). Try to remember and practice them often (perhaps write it on a post-it note and stick on the side of your computer monitor). Along your journey of becoming a shortcut master, you will discover new and more complex shortcuts that you can use at your disposal.
Good Luck!
The Biz On Those File Extensions
A file extension are the few letters that come after the filename, usually consisting of three or four letters. For example:
fileexample.dll
The .dll would be the file extension. These so-called extensions are important in determining what type of file the file is. The .dll, in this case, stands for "Dynamic Link Library", which is a data holding place for other applications (hence the name "Library"). Note that .dll files are not open-able and should not be messed around with or deleted--doing so may cause serious problems in the program that they are associated to or corrupt the Windows operating system. But enough about .dll extensions...
Have you ever seen this before?
This is an unknown file type (the icon can also look like a blank sheet of paper). If you double-click on it, Windows will ask what type of program to open this unknown file with. If you know, great, choose the program from the "browse" list and your set. However, if you don't know, then look at the file extension.. If it doesn't have an extension, then you can always try the automatic Internet search option, but it is not always guaranteed to work.
Note that most unknown files cannot be opened; they usually accompany another program (such as the .dll file).
You can also change the extension by retyping it (although it doesn't always work on PCs), such as chaning a file to a .wmv (windows media player/viewer). Of course, if that file is not programmed to run with .wmv, it won't open.
So the next time you see an unknown file type, do not be afraid, be courageous. Just don't mess around with it unless you know what it is and what you're doing.
fileexample.dll
The .dll would be the file extension. These so-called extensions are important in determining what type of file the file is. The .dll, in this case, stands for "Dynamic Link Library", which is a data holding place for other applications (hence the name "Library"). Note that .dll files are not open-able and should not be messed around with or deleted--doing so may cause serious problems in the program that they are associated to or corrupt the Windows operating system. But enough about .dll extensions...
Have you ever seen this before?
This is an unknown file type (the icon can also look like a blank sheet of paper). If you double-click on it, Windows will ask what type of program to open this unknown file with. If you know, great, choose the program from the "browse" list and your set. However, if you don't know, then look at the file extension.. If it doesn't have an extension, then you can always try the automatic Internet search option, but it is not always guaranteed to work.But if it does have an extension, then you might be able to tell what program it is associated with. If you don't, then research it. I highly recommend the site Filext (filext.com). Just type in the extension and you get a full explanation of what it is.
Note that most unknown files cannot be opened; they usually accompany another program (such as the .dll file).
You can also change the extension by retyping it (although it doesn't always work on PCs), such as chaning a file to a .wmv (windows media player/viewer). Of course, if that file is not programmed to run with .wmv, it won't open.
So the next time you see an unknown file type, do not be afraid, be courageous. Just don't mess around with it unless you know what it is and what you're doing.
The Scoop About OEM Software
You probably heard about OEM software before. And if you didn't, well, you didn't. Anyway, there are some advantages and disadvantages to purchasing OEM software.
First of all, OEM is an abbreviation for Original Equipment Manufacturer, which is basically the same thing as regular retail, except cheaper and without the same "rights".
Advantage of OEM:
-Cheaper than the retail version
Disadvantages of OEM:
-Doesn't come in the nice, pretty box, or any comprehensive instruction manuals, or any cardboard surroundings (ok, this is a stretch...)
-When you buy OEM software, it comes in a sealed box with a "Certification of Authenticity" key. The first drawback is that once you break the seal, you're stuck with it--no returning or refunds!
-Once you install the software on your computer, it encodes the serial number on the motherboard, bounding or tying itself to the motherboard. In other words, you cannot install that software on another computer (or another motherboard, for that matter). If you get a new motherboard, you have to buy that software again.
-You are also your own technical support. For example, I called Microsoft for a question about my OEM version of Windows Vista (long story, I might tell it to you sometime), and once they heard the noble Certification of Authenticity key, they refused to offer any help. To put it more directly, you have to deal with any technical problems that might arise on your own.
Now, before you jump to any conclusions that OEM software is bad, I want you to realize that these disadvantages aren't necessarily that terrible--OEM software is mostly for people who are "sole PC builders". I don't prefer one over the other; they are both equal, in my opinion.
So, in conclusion, whatever is right for you is right for you.
First of all, OEM is an abbreviation for Original Equipment Manufacturer, which is basically the same thing as regular retail, except cheaper and without the same "rights".
Advantage of OEM:
-Cheaper than the retail version
Disadvantages of OEM:
-Doesn't come in the nice, pretty box, or any comprehensive instruction manuals, or any cardboard surroundings (ok, this is a stretch...)
-When you buy OEM software, it comes in a sealed box with a "Certification of Authenticity" key. The first drawback is that once you break the seal, you're stuck with it--no returning or refunds!
-Once you install the software on your computer, it encodes the serial number on the motherboard, bounding or tying itself to the motherboard. In other words, you cannot install that software on another computer (or another motherboard, for that matter). If you get a new motherboard, you have to buy that software again.
-You are also your own technical support. For example, I called Microsoft for a question about my OEM version of Windows Vista (long story, I might tell it to you sometime), and once they heard the noble Certification of Authenticity key, they refused to offer any help. To put it more directly, you have to deal with any technical problems that might arise on your own.
Now, before you jump to any conclusions that OEM software is bad, I want you to realize that these disadvantages aren't necessarily that terrible--OEM software is mostly for people who are "sole PC builders". I don't prefer one over the other; they are both equal, in my opinion.
So, in conclusion, whatever is right for you is right for you.
Some Backup Advice
Got important files and data on your computer? You probably know it's important to back it up on an external device in case your computer crashes and all your data is lost forever. But it is important to know some "tech specs" and what device to backup your data on.
-USB Flash Drive: (below) Very useful for traveling and storing documents and pictures, and, depending on the memory capacity of the flash drive, music and short video clips. The Flash drives are about 2 inches in length and plug into a USB port of your computer. They can store anything from as little as 32 MB to 10GB and possibly more. As technology develops, more and more memory will be able to fit into this little device.
Here is an approximation of how large a typical file is:
A Song (imported from a CD) that is 3 minutes long is 3 MB (megabytes). Note that this depends on the compression and formatting of the song.
A Video (on a hard drive) that is 10 minutes long is 1 GB (gigabyte; 1000 MB). This can vary.
A Picture is hard to approximate, for pictures come in different resolutions and formats, but they are usually in the mid-high KBs (kilobyte; 1/1000 of a megabyte).
A standard Microsoft Word Document is in the low KBs (32 KB, for example).
The Well-Known and Commonly Used Backup Devices
-External Hard Drive: (below) Probably the most common in storing large amounts of data, such as music, videos, and other large files. Note that in this day and age, 40 GB and up of storage space is often used and is recommended.
-USB Flash Drive: (below) Very useful for traveling and storing documents and pictures, and, depending on the memory capacity of the flash drive, music and short video clips. The Flash drives are about 2 inches in length and plug into a USB port of your computer. They can store anything from as little as 32 MB to 10GB and possibly more. As technology develops, more and more memory will be able to fit into this little device.-CD (Compact Disc): (below) A standard CD stores up to 700 MB. There are two main types of CD: R (wRitable) and RW (ReWritable). If you're into burning CD's for music purposes, buy R CDs. It is true that you can burn music on a RW CD, but you can only play them on your computer, not on your stereo. For data files, such as documents and pictures, RW is ideal, since you can write files, delete files, and add files to your RW CD at any time. Once you burn a R CD, nothing can be changed, it's done (hence the name, "burn").
-DVD (Digital Versatile/Video Disc): DVDs look exactly like CDs and store up to 9.4 GB (the standard is 4.7 GB, which stores up to 120 minutes of video). The same applies to DVDs: when burning videos, use R, or else they won't play in your DVD player.
-Floppy Disk: (below) Only use these flat things if you want a temporary and makeshift backup (like a day or week). Why? With only 1.44 MB of storage capacity and a low reliablity rating, these things aren't worth it in this day and age. They are defenseless against magnetic fields, so don't store them on top of metal, such as your computer's case or a speaker. They do not last very long and have significant problems retaining recorded data. Don't be surprised if your floppy disc is corrupted after a year of storage. Yes, they can last a long time, but don't trust them 100%.Choose the right backup device for you, but remember to backup important data that you don't want to lose forever. Imagine losing a book (on your computer) you've been working on for over a year! How about important finance or insurance information--gone.
No matter which device you use, always remember to backup often and backup what you need!
The Truth About Monitors
Have you ever been tempted to buy that monstrous 30" monitor for the cheap price of about $500 compared to the usual $2000? That pesky salesman says that you can get a 19" for the same price as a 15"! Before you eagerly shake his hand and place your dough in his shirt pocket, take note about the following important factors that really determine whether a monitor is excellent or really just a piece of crap.
1. The type of monitor. There are two main types: CRT and LCD.
CRT (above)- abbreviation for Cathode Ray Tube. Those are the big bulky ones with the large back and usually round screen.
Some Advantages: Very cheap, dot pitch (discussed more below) is a bit lower than LCDs.
Some Disadvantages: Takes up a lot of space, the refresh rate (discussed more below) is slower, round screen which distorts image, lower resolutions, emits radiation that can be harmful over time.
LCD (above)- abbreviation for Liquid Crystal Display. These are the thin and sleek flat pannel displays.
Some Advantages: Takes up small amount of space, refresh rate is higher, flat screen, higher resolutions, emits very little or virtually no radiation.
Some Disadvantages: More expensive than CRTs but reasonably priced, a bit higher dot pitch than CRTs.
2. Screen Resolution - The lower the resolution, the worse and less sharp the picture. Note that if a monitor has a maximum screen resolution of, say 1024 x 768, and the video card in the computer has a maximum resolution of 800 x 600, the monitor will not perform up to its capabilities, and vice versa.
3. Refresh Rate- This is the number of times per second that the video card redraws the image on the screen, measured in hertz (Hz). Note: this is not the rental car service. The more hertz, the faster the refresh rate, the more stable the image, and the lower strain there is on your eyes. Comfortable refresh rates are different for every person's eyes, the higher the better, but typical ones are from 60 Hz to 75 Hz; anything lower might be uncomfortable.
4. Dot/Pixel Pitch- One of the most important things to watch out for is that sneaky dot pitch. Dot or Pixel Pitch is the distance between each pixel, measured in millimeters. The lower the dot pitch, the better and more detailed the picture. Any monitor that has a dot pitch of .26 or less is acceptable, above the .26 range results in a decrease in detail and a rough appearance. If that cheap too-good-to-be-true monitor has a dot pitch of let's say .32, you can throw it in the trash and slam the lid.
5. VGA vs. DVI- This factor does not matter as much, but newer LCD monitors are using DVI (Digital Visual Interface), which has a faster transfer rate of data and the best performance than the VGA (Video Graphics Array).
There are other factors that constitute a good monitor, but these are the main ones to take into account. Remember that you usually pay for what you're getting.
1. The type of monitor. There are two main types: CRT and LCD.
CRT (above)- abbreviation for Cathode Ray Tube. Those are the big bulky ones with the large back and usually round screen.
Some Advantages: Very cheap, dot pitch (discussed more below) is a bit lower than LCDs.
Some Disadvantages: Takes up a lot of space, the refresh rate (discussed more below) is slower, round screen which distorts image, lower resolutions, emits radiation that can be harmful over time.
LCD (above)- abbreviation for Liquid Crystal Display. These are the thin and sleek flat pannel displays.
Some Advantages: Takes up small amount of space, refresh rate is higher, flat screen, higher resolutions, emits very little or virtually no radiation.
Some Disadvantages: More expensive than CRTs but reasonably priced, a bit higher dot pitch than CRTs.
2. Screen Resolution - The lower the resolution, the worse and less sharp the picture. Note that if a monitor has a maximum screen resolution of, say 1024 x 768, and the video card in the computer has a maximum resolution of 800 x 600, the monitor will not perform up to its capabilities, and vice versa.
3. Refresh Rate- This is the number of times per second that the video card redraws the image on the screen, measured in hertz (Hz). Note: this is not the rental car service. The more hertz, the faster the refresh rate, the more stable the image, and the lower strain there is on your eyes. Comfortable refresh rates are different for every person's eyes, the higher the better, but typical ones are from 60 Hz to 75 Hz; anything lower might be uncomfortable.
4. Dot/Pixel Pitch- One of the most important things to watch out for is that sneaky dot pitch. Dot or Pixel Pitch is the distance between each pixel, measured in millimeters. The lower the dot pitch, the better and more detailed the picture. Any monitor that has a dot pitch of .26 or less is acceptable, above the .26 range results in a decrease in detail and a rough appearance. If that cheap too-good-to-be-true monitor has a dot pitch of let's say .32, you can throw it in the trash and slam the lid.
5. VGA vs. DVI- This factor does not matter as much, but newer LCD monitors are using DVI (Digital Visual Interface), which has a faster transfer rate of data and the best performance than the VGA (Video Graphics Array).
There are other factors that constitute a good monitor, but these are the main ones to take into account. Remember that you usually pay for what you're getting.
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